Special Issue: Fashion and Dress in Contemporary Turkey for International Journal of Fashion Studies
The textile and clothing industry has been among the leading sectors of Turkey as a result of the adoption of neoliberal policies starting in the 1980s, e.g. government support for entrepreneurs and incentives for exporters, and joining the European Union Customs Union in 1995. The strength of the Turkish textile and clothing industry has also gained considerable prominence in the area of fashion design. In 2013 Istanbul fashion week elevated to ranks of famous fashion destinations such as New York, London, and Paris. Turkish fashion designers began appearing in fashion capitals (Modem 2014). In addition, both public institutions and private initiatives established fashion education schools for a new generation of designers and fashion influencers. However, this flourishing sector has been mostly explored from a business perspective, such as manufacturing and retailing (see, e.g., Neidik and Gereffi, 2006; Tokatli and Eldener, 2004; Tokatli and Kızılgün, 2009).
Furthermore, the scholarship on fashion and dress in contemporary Turkey has widely concentrated on veiled women, and investigated their veiling and clothing practices (see, e.g., Gökarıksel and Secor 2012, 2014; Sandıkçı and Ger 2001, 2005, 2007, 2010). It has also examined the ‘Islamic fashion’ market which, emerged in the early 1990s, has rapidly transformed and expanded in the new millennium (see, e.g., Gökarıksel and Secor 2009, 2010a, 2010b, 2015; Kılıçbay and Binark 2002; Lewis 2015; Navaro-Yashin 2002; Toksoy and Erdoğan 2014).On the other hand, not only the ‘Islamic fashion’ market (which caters veiled women), but also the mainstream fashion arena, consisting of womenswear, menswear, and children’s wear, has immensely expanded in the 2000s. Research on numerous aspects of this arena, such as sociology of clothing (see, e.g, Craciun, 2010; Karademir-Hazır 2014, 2017), remains limited.
This special issue aims to extend the scope of the scholarship on fashion and dress in contemporary Turkey and explore them from sociocultural perspectives. We invite full papers employing sociocultural theories and grounded in primary sources (literary, visual, archival, textual, ethnographic, artistic, and so on) and from different disciplines and fields, including Sociology, Anthropology, Gender Studies, Cultural Studies, Media Studies, and Arts and Design. The possible topics include, but are not limited to:
- Fashion and dress in visual and material cultures such as advertisements, fashion magazines and materials used for covering the head and hair,
- Acculturation, appropriation and/or (re)interpretations of historical, ethnic, and religious dress,
- Emerging and/or established players in the fashion field, such as designers, stylists, and image consultants,
- Fashion and social media, for example bloggers and Instagram influencers,
- Fashion and youth culture,
- Fashion-themed reality TV shows, such as Bana Herşey Yakışır,
- Fashion and dress in TV soap operas, e.g. Muhteşem Yüzyıl, and their reflections in the contemporary marketplace, and
- Fashion and gender, such as hipster masculinity and the new male image in fashion advertising.
Manuscripts should not exceed 8.000 words and should follow the guidelines of International Journal of Fashion Studies
Full papers are due by the end of October 2018 to firstname.lastname@example.org. You will be notified on acceptance of your paper by the end of December 2018. Manuscripts are to be published in October 2020, issue 7.2.
Craciun, M. (2010), ‘The work of an Istanbulite imitasyoncu’, in Bevan, A. and Wengrow, D. (eds) Cultures of Commodity Branding, London: Routledge, pp. 87-108.
Gökarıksel, B. and Secor, A. J. (2009), ‘New transnational geographies of Islamism, capitalism, and subjectivity: the veiling-fashion industry in Turkey’, Arena, 14 (1), pp. 6-18.
Gökarıksel, B. and Secor, A. J. (2010a), ‘Between fashion and tesettür: marketing and consuming women’s Islamic dress’, Journal of Middle East Women’s Studies, 6 (3), pp. 118-148.
Gökarıksel, B. and Secor, A. J. (2010b), ‘Islamic-ness in the life of a commodity: veiling fashion in Turkey’, Transactions of the Institute of British Geographers, 35, pp. 313-333.
Gökarıksel, B. and Secor, A. J. (2012), ‘“Even I was tempted”: the moral ambivalence and ethical practice of veiling-fashion in Turkey’, Annals of the Association of American Geographers, 102 (4), pp. 847-862.
Gökarıksel, B. and Secor, A. J. (2014), ‘The veil, desire, and the gaze: turning the inside out’, Signs: Journal of Women in Culture and Society, 40 (1), pp. 177-200.
Gökarıksel, B. and Secor, A. J. (2015), ‘Islam on the catwalk: marketing veiling-fashion in Turkey’, inBrunn, S. D. (ed.) The Changing World Religion Map: Sacred Places, Identities, Practices and Politics, New York, NY: Springer, pp. 2581-2595.
Karademir-Hazır, I. (2014), ‘How bodies are classed: An analysis of clothing and bodily tastes in Turkey”, Poetics, 44, pp. 1-21.
Karademir-Hazır, I. (2017), ‘Wearing class: A study on clothes, bodies and emotions in Turkey’, Journal of Consumer Culture, 17 (2), pp. 413-432.
Kılıçbay, B. and Binark, M. (2002), ‘Consumer culture, Islam and the politics of lifestyle: fashion for veiling in contemporary Turkey’, European Journal of Communication, 17 (4), pp. 495-511.
Lewis, R. (2015), Muslim Fashion: Contemporary Style Cultures, Durham and London: Duke University Press.
Modem (2014), ‘France/The Turkish Design Cluster in the Who’s Next Paris’. 1 January. http://www.modemonline.com/modem-mag/article/2555-france--the-turkish-de... Accessed 12 December 2017.
Navaro-Yashin, Y. (2002), ‘The Market for Identities: Secularism, Islamism, commodities’, inKandiyoti, D. and Saktanber, A. (eds) Fragments of Culture: The Everyday of Modern Turkey, London: I.B. Tauris, pp. 221-253.
Neidik, B. and Gereffi, G. (2006), ‘Explaining Turkey’s emergence and sustained competitiveness as a full-package supplier of apparel’, Environment and Planning A, 38, pp. 2285-2303.
Sandıkçı, Ö. and Ger, G. (2001), ‘Fundamental fashions: the cultural politics of the turban and the Levi’s’, inGilly, M. C. and Meyers-Levy, J. (eds) Advances in Consumer Research, 28, pp. 146-150.
Sandıkçı, Ö. and Ger, G. (2005), ‘Aesthetics, ethics and politics of the Turkish headscarf’, inKuchler, S. and Miller, D. (eds) Clothing as Material Culture, Oxford: Berg, pp. 61-82.
Sandıkçı, Ö. and Ger, G. (2007), ‘Constructing and representing the Islamic consumer in Turkey’, Fashion Theory, 11 (2-3), pp. 189-210.
Sandıkçı, Ö. and Ger, G. (2010), ‘Veiling in fashion: how does a stigmatized practice become fashionable?’, Journal of Consumer Research, 37, pp. 15-36.
Tokatli, N. and Eldener, Y. B. (2004), ‘Upgrading in the global clothing industry: The transformation of Boyner holding’, Competition & Change, 8 (2), 173-193.
Tokatli, N., and Kızılgün, Ö. (2009), ‘From manufacturing garments for ready-to-wear to designing collections for fast fashion: Evidence from Turkey’, Environment and Planning A, 41, pp. 146-162.
Toksoy, N. G. and Erdoğan, E. K. (2014) ‘Geçmişle bugünün mübadelesi, gelenekle modernin müzakeresi bağlamında İslâmi modanın dergisi: Âlâ’, Toplum ve Bilim, 130, pp. 155-175.